Construction Process


Many of our clients ask how the custom manufacturing process works. Sometimes we forget that these processes aren't as normal for you as they are for us. Therefore, we'd like to fill you in. The following is the step-by-step process in which suit jackets, pants, and shirts are made.

All H.M. Cole custom suits, trousers, and shirts are produced uniquely for each individual. However, they follow a similar process of production. Because jackets are the most intricate, we will emphasize them more, but pants and shirts follow a very similar process:

1- You select your product and customize it to your needs, complete measurements are taken, allowances are added according to your fit preference (slim, modern, custom, traditional), and your order is submitted by your Personal Clothier for production.

2- Your order is received for processing and the fabric is put on request. Because many of our custom fabrics are imported from Italy or England, this step generally takes a couple of days. For in-house fabrics or imported fabrics that we carry in stock, they are available immediately. 

3- Once your fabric arrives at our H.M. Cole tailoring facility it is cut into two parts. One piece goes to our jacket team, and the other piece goes to our trouser team. Shirting already comes separately, of course. Your cloth is placed in queue along with the order form, then waits to be cut. We adjust the queue daily according to volume and delivery deadlines. 

4- For a standard order, your garment reaches the top of the queue approximately 5-10 days from receipt of fabric. Then, the cloth is laid out neatly on an incredibly smooth, wooden pattern-cutting table that is dusted between each cut. The master tailor then looks at your photos and measurements and outlines your pattern using tailoring chalk. Then, in the old-world style, the master tailor cuts the pattern using shears that are sent for professionally sharpening every Monday. Each piece is cut separately; the chest pieces, back panels, arm pieces, lapels, etc. Although your garment may appear to be one piece when you get it, it is actually made of multiple panels sewn together (10 pieces for a jacket). If you are purchasing multiple suits, a paper pattern (similar to wax paper) is drawn and saved for future use. The tailor often writes specific notes in chalk for the construction team, and the cloth is passed onto the construction team. 

5- The construction teams work in pairs to bring the pattern to life and create a suit jacket.  The process includes multiple steps of its own including: 

  • Temporary threading to hold parts together

  • Inner construction (chest piece, canvassing)

  • Trimming attachment (lining, shoulder pads)

  • Sleeve attachment (done by hand after torso is finished)

  • Collar & Lapel attachment (also done by hand--superior and rare)

  • Finish work (buttonholes, pick stitch, inner logos, monograms, etc.)

  • Final pressing to define the permanent shaping (lapels, pant crease)

6- Your suit is hung and ready to be checked for quality control. When checked for quality control, each measurement is checked against the order form to make sure the specifications are correct. All jackets are placed on a mannequin and checked for drape and even seams. Visible threads are removed, and if your garments pass inspection, they are sent for shipment. If your garments fail inspection, they are sent back for adjustments.

7- Your order is packed and shipped via 3-day DHL courier service and your Personal Clothier receives the shipment, presses your suits, and prepares the garments for delivery!